What are a Chihuahua's sleeping arrangements?
Chihuahuas prefer the protection of a "family" or group of other Chi's when they need to sleep. They tend, therefore, to be a little unhappy sleeping on their own. If you only have the one Chi she will be vary aware of her vunerability, and may find it difficult to sleep. She will not likely identify with other pets in the house - if you're thinking she might settle with your easy-going cat - forget it!
Without the protection of other Chi's she will likely identify you (or owner) as the one to offer her protection as she sleeps, and will make obvious signs that she wants you to be with her.
What this tends to mean is that most Chi owners with a single Chi will bed them down on their own bed at night. If you think this is not what you want to do then think twice about getting a Chihuahua because she and you are likely to be unhappy with attempting other arrangements.
Should they be groomed more often?
This might seem an odd question to ask, except when you have experienced the amount of shed hair you seem to be getting from your Chi. This, however, tends to be most noticable on your clothing - why? yes, you've guessed it! - because you carry her about so much!
The reality is, so I understand, they only moult as much as many other breeds. The long-haired variety of Chi, in fact, shedding a little less than their short-haired counter-part.
Whether you wish to groom (i.e. brush) her more often, so as to reduce the amount of hair you end up with on your clothes is up to you (and how well she enjoys being brushed). Don't be tempted to bathe her too much though if you think this could be an alternative. A Chi's skin is known to become too dry and develop problems if bathed to excess (i.e. perhaps bathe no more than twice a week with conditioner, and less often without). See also Facts article page
How can I house-break my Chihuahua?
Most experts in the field of dog training will tell you that one of the most successful approaches to house-breaking your Chi is not allow your puppy to have full freedom of the house until it knows where it can "go".
The first step is to provide it with constant access to some where it can use - example, a litter tray or access to a safe garden through a cat flap, etc.
The second step is to watch it for signs of wanting to "go", and carefully taking it to the desired place - i.e. the litter tray or through the open door to the garden (later showing it how to use the cat flap - don't forget this must lead to a safe and secure garden).
Repeating this process a few times will eventually pay-off. The trick is to be vigillant and consistent in the early days, and use praise for successes (do not be overly negative for failures, and never smack, she will not respond well to this). See also Facts article page
General Training of your Chi is beyond the scope of this article but it is generally thought that a Chihuahua is easy to train within the first two years of its life but after that can be a little harder than most other dogs (not impossible though, see books in Menu).
Why do some Chihuahuas seem to snap at people?
This is a subject that shouldn't be taken too lightly of course, since you don't want anyone to be injured in this way. Fortunately, not only do such incidents rarely occur but they are also rarely a character trait of the Chi.
If such an incident does occur, it seems that there has been at least some blame to be shared with the
owner. Oh really, you say! OK, I know it sounds like Chi's can't put a paw wrong but just bare with me for a moment.
Owners can forget that Chi's prefer a tranquil, protected and calm environment, and if their Chi is suddenly presented with a stranger thrusting a limb towards them (possibly while being held), they are inclined to be on the defensive. This is not always the case as you may have observed, and is likely to be different if she has had the time to evaluate the situation.
Some of the snapping circumstances then are as follows.
Socialising your Chi may help to overcome some of the "snappy" situations - see our article on "Will a small dog require less exercise?". It should be emphasised that Chi's are very pleasant natured dogs despite the list above, and do not wish to harm anyone under normal circumstances. If you're that small you have to try to look scary - right?
Poison Prevention
Many dogs die each year by accidental ingestion of household poisons, including pesticides, popular houseplants, medications and common foods (e.g. chocolate is dangerous of course). Dishwashing detergent, coffee grounds, fabric softener sheets, mothballs, potpourri oils, cigarettes, alcoholic drinks, etc could be dangerous for your pet. Prescription and over-the-counter medications including cold and cough medicines, painkillers, antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills, etc can be lethal to animals, even in small doses.
So what do you do about poisons in your garden, for example, when the lawn has been treated with fertilisers, herbicides or insecticides?
Prevention is the easiest strategy. It is recommended that you allow treated lawns to completely dry before letting your pet on to them, for example. Slug and snail bait / poisons are also extreemly toxic to dogs.
Also, a garden can have a large number of plants that can be poisonous but equally since the odds are against you recognising them or your pet even eating them, it may be a little useless to ponder this (nevertheless you can check a list here of Poisonous Plants).
One item needs to be mentioned in this prevention category, and that is car antifreeze. Some types of antifreeze can be sweet tasting to your pet and therefore more likely to be lapped-up, so if you spill some don’t let your pet ingest it (Propylene glycol antifreeze is less poisonous though).
Poisonous "Food"
It can be useful to be aware of certain human foods that are poisonous to dogs but it should be mentioned that in some instances this is understood in the context of large quantities or frequent access. A possible exception is chocolate - this is dealt with lower down in this article, but because it can be very toxic to your dog, and be prevalent in our diets, access for your dog can be especially dangerour (see further discussion below).
Here is a list of some human foods that have proven a health hazard for your dog.
You may wonder at some of the above but each item is well documented as hazardous.
Poisoning from Chocolate
So what should you do if your pet does ingest what you suspect to be a poison? It seems the most likely poison is going to be chocolate, and the most likely to lead to death. Yes, OK but what about amounts eaten?, you might say - this is difficult to answer because not only does it depend on the size of your dog but also the amount of cocoa content in the chocolate consumed. For example, even small chips of milk chocolate have led to the death of dogs, whereas Baking chocolate can have 8 times the concentration of toxicity as milk chocolate, and pure cocoa 16 times. However, there are lots of variables at play, and the only clear thing that can be said is don't give it.
Symptoms of chocolate poisoning are: within a few hours possibly diarrhoea and vomiting, restlessness and hyperactivity (she might even come to you for help at this stage). When symptoms get worse her heart rate will become abnormal (arrhythmia) and other muscles may begin to twitch. Often frequent urination occurs. You will need to act before this occurs - her death is a strong possibility now!
Treatment at home involves keeping an Emergency Kit containing a special form of charcoal (activated charcoal which binds the chocolate) and an item that will make your dog vomit (hydrogen peroxide in water solution, give 1-2 teaspoons for a small dog is often recommended but check with your vet to see if anything better is now available).
Unless you are prepared to get this kit ready for such an eventuality, you will probably not be successful with what you get together on the spur of the moment!
The best way to proceed in such a case is to phone the vet for advice while someone quickly organises taking your dog to the vet for treatment immediately.
See following link for further information on chocolate poisoning: TippyPaws (despite being for big dogs)
Other Poisons
In the case of other types of poison, it is recommended that what ever poison ingested by your pet you need to quickly check what it says on the packaging, as you would if a human had ingested poison, and follow the poison instructions (often induced vomiting is suggested - if so check "Treatment" paragraph above).
See following link for further information on chocolate poisoning: TippyPaws and Kennel Club of America
Facts about Chihuahuas
Chihuahua-Hour has researched the following topics, and provided these facts as accurately as we can - where any inaccuracies are discovered, these will be remedied as quickly as possible (last updated Apr 2010).
| Chihuahua Facts |
| Topic | Comment |
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| Origin | From Chihuahua a State of Mexico |
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| Further Detail on above | There is some uncertainty with regard to origin, since some theories indicate that the breed may not be from Mexico but possibly from Malta or even China. The name certainly is derived from the Mexican State of Chihuahua. The most common theory and most likely is that Chihuahuas are descended from the Techichi dog, a companion dog favoured by the Toltec civilisation in Mexico. |
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| Breed Standards | Maximum weight of 6 pounds, long or short-haired. |
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| Further Detail on above | There is usually only one breed specification for the Chihuahua - Weight (not more than 6 pounds for "conformation") but generally the height ranges from 6 to 10 inches (although can be up to 15 inches). Chihuahua breeders often use the terms miniature, teacup, tiny toy, apple headed, or deer headed, to describe puppies but these terms are not recognised by breed standards and can have a range of meaning. Two variety of coat are recognised: long-coat (or long-haired) and smooth-coat (or short-haired). The long-haired coat usually feels softer than the coat of the short-haired variety, and will often take up to 2 years to grow fully (contrary to belief the long-haired coat sheds less than the short-haired). Coat colour classification has become difficult and many kennel clubs simply state they are prepared to register "any colour or mixture of colours but not merle (dapple)". |
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| Temperament | Graceful, alert, swift-moving dog, compact, with terrier-like qualities. |
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| Further Detail on above | The American Kennel Club give the description above but more fully as, "A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament." The breed tends to be fiercely loyal to one particular owner, but may be attached to others. These traits generally make them unsuitable for households with children that are not patient and calm. Chihuahuas crave attention, affection, exercise and being petted. They can be hyper, but eager to please. |
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| Living Conditions | Prefers warm weather and dislikes cold, likes space like any dog. |
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| Further Detail on above | They are OK in a flat (apartment) but still need to be walked regularly. The Chihuahua likes warm weather and is sensitive to the cold. They need space just like any other dog. See also Article page |
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| Life expectancy | 15 years |
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| Further Detail on above | 15 years on average but often 16 years and beyond. Please also see separate page on Health of your Chihuahua. |
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| Grooming | Short-haired - gently brush occasionally; long-haired brush daily with a soft bristle brush |
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| Further Detail on above | The smooth, short-haired coat need only be gently brushed occasionally or simply wiped over with a damp cloth. The long coat should be brushed daily with a soft bristle brush. Bathe both types about once per month (more often tends to dry-out the skin - use a conditioner if possible), taking care not to get water in the ears. Check the ears regularly and keep the nails trimmed if the dog doesn't her self. This breed is an average shedder. |
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| Genetics | Chihuahuas are the smallest breed of dog in the world. |
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| Further Detail on above | Chihuahuas are the smallest breed of dog in the world; considered the only "natural" toy breed; this means they are naturally small and not as a result of generations of breeding "down" larger breeds. |
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| Summary description | The Chihuahua is energetic, alert, observant, and agile. |
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| Further Detail on above | The Chihuahua is a swift, energetic, alert, observant, and agile dog. Despite their size, Chihuahuas can be bold with other larger dog breeds and can also be very protective of their families, making them good watch dogs. |
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| Training | Chihuahuas are very clever dogs but can be a little difficult to train especially when it comes to housebreaking. Many owners simply paper train them or use a litter tray. They are intelligent and so can learn obedience if you take the time to train them with positive reinforcement instead of yelling (which they do not respond to very well). |
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Chihuahua Health
The problem with writing anything on this topic is the possibility of encouraging false diagnosis leading to further harm to your pet, therefore, please do not use this page for diagnosis, instead leave that to a qualified vet. The Chihuahua is a long-lived breed, often living up to 16 years and beyond; they are generally a healthy breed with relatively few health problems, so enjoy this fact as you read.
| Chihuahua Health |
| Topic | Comment |
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| Rheumatism | Chihuahuas are susceptible to the cold and rheumatism, and will do their best to burrow in blankets, etc. given the chance to avoid the possibility of getting cold (even when it is presently warm). |
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| Slipped stifle or subluxation of the patella | That is, loose kneecaps on the rear legs; this can either happen rarely or frequently depending on the dog, so in mild cases it may present simply like a "trick knee" righting it self (do not attempt to manipulate it yourself) but in more severe cases surgery might be advised. |
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| Gum problems | The Chihuahua has too small a mouth for its teeth, resulting in teeth overcrowding. Overcrowding of teeth can cause various teeth and gum disorders; this can cause the same plaque and tartar build-up humans experience; there is therefore a need to avoid sugary foods, a need to brush her teeth or give dental chews; have her teeth checked regularly. |
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| Eye problems | Chihuahuas have large eyes which can easily suffer injury; a few drops of a saline solution is often recommended for dust in the eye (also for corneal dryness) but if the injury seems more serious take her to the vet, of course. |
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| Hypoglycemia | Hypoglycemia is low blood sugar and is a common problem in young Toy breed puppies; most will grow out of it, for some it's a danger throughout their lives; symptoms: staggering gait, glassy eyes, and sometimes either limpness or rigidity. If she doesn't receive immediate help, she can suffer seizures, unconsciousness, and finally, die; treatment involves putting some sugar in her mouth and calling the vet. |
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| Weight gain (excessive) | As you might expect, a healthy balanced diet is recommended to prevent obesity; avoid giving human food (high in sugars and / or salt), and due to Chihuahuas being susceptible to gum and teeth problems, ensure dry foods (i.e. dog biscuits, chews, bones, etc.) are a main part of the diet. See also Article page |
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| Suseptable to toxic products (poisons) | Be cautious around toxic products such as chocolate and even fertilizer; being a very small breed it will not take much to poison. See also Article page |
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| Head injury | Chihuahuas are often born via caesarean section because puppies are born with relatively large heads, part of this condition is they can have a "molera" which is an unclosed section of the skull (can remain open throughout their life), making the dog prone to injury. |
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| Wheezing | Wheezing or a honking cough (some times referred to as "reverse sneezing") is a tracheal collapse and is a narrowing of the windpipe due to the weakening of the cartilage which supports the trachea; it is common in Chihuahuas. The cough is often brought on after exercise, heat, excitement, or humidity; over-weight dogs are particularly vulnerable; the condition can be managed by using glucosamine supplements to strengthen cartilage; protect your Chihuahua's throat by keeping pressure off the airway, for example, use a harness instead of a collar. What is sometimes recommended when this wheezing occurs is that you gently rub the throat from base to chin but if this is a serious recurring problem consult your vet. |
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| Stress | Chihuahuas have a high metabolic rate and are prone to shaking but they do also suffer from stress and prefer a calm living environment. |
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| Heart murmur | Heart murmurs are not common in Chihuahuas; where one is detected it is often the "functional" type; this means she can still be as active as she wants to be and live a long, normal life. |
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| Constipation | Digestive disorders can be a common complaint with Chihuahuas, and often due to eating human food. Be careful with this type of disorder if looking serious but mild cases have various remedies advocated (in addition to improving the diet long-term). Try a teaspoon of the following or you can put a little in an egg-cup and dip your finger in to it, then in to her mouth but without forcing it on her; unsweetened yoghurt or pumpkin oil (without the spices) or olive oil. Within the hour she should be able to "go". Seek vet advice if this hasn't worked. |
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| Pregnancy | (See our Pregnancy and Breeding pages) |
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| Poison | (See our Poison Prevention article) |
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Chihuahua Pregnancy
Gestation for a Chihuahua is usually 9 weeks (63 days) but if she has a small litter of puppies she can go on to 70 days. Because a young Chi can have sever problems with a first litter, a Chihuahua should never breed on first heat (see also our Breeding page).
Although it is possible to determine exactly when a successful breeding took place from taking your Chihuahua’s temperature, and therefore predict her whelping date the following signs along the way should occur.
| Weekly Schedule of Chihuahua's Pregnancy |
Week 1 to 4 | During the first 4 weeks you may see some small change in your Chihuahua (but sometimes none during this early stage): As progesterone hormones rise some Chi’s will become more affectionate but conversely some will become more snappy and irritable. If pregnancy is suspected contact your vet at this stage since several things can go wrong. This can be for not only the puppies but also the mother dog (including death occurring if the litter die in the womb). Arrange a schedule of checks with the vet. |
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Week 4 | After 4 weeks you should detect an increase in weight so start weighing her every few days |
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Week 5 | After 5 weeks weight gain should be more obvious, and the mother should show signs of eating more – if no weight gain is detected it might be worth having your vet do an ultrasound to confirm whether there are puppies or not. |
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Week 6 | After 6 weeks you or your vet might wish to palpate (feel) for the puppies at this time since even movement could be evident. She will need to urinate more frequently, and these times might be ideal to encourage her to exercise a little. |
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Week 7 | After week 7 there are often signs that mammary glands enlarge but sometimes this only occurs after giving birth. |
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Weeks 8 to 9 | Finally, during weeks 8 and 9 she should be noticeably pregnant, and you need to have your whelping box and supplies ready. Discuss this with your vet but these often consist of a disposable purpose made cardboard box, absorbent pads and warming pads (a common cause of new-born death is hypothermia) for the new-born puppies. In addition, your vet may suggest other items such as animal disinfectant, feeding syringes, etc.– don’t minimise how useful all this will be! |
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| Please note, we strongly recommend that the birth take place at the vet clinic, the items recommended for weeks 8-9 above might be kept for an emergency or by an experienced breeder. See our Breeding page for more information on the Birth event. |
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See also our Breeding page for information on preparation and birth.
If you would like to see a web site providing some interesting pictures of a caesarean section performed on a Chihuahua (not for the squeamish!) click on following: c-section web site
Breeding your Chihuahua The first question you need to answer is should you breed your Chihuahua. There are risks involved that are some what greater than other toy dogs, including the possible need to provide a caesarean section (which can be expensive), and it is widely recommended that the whole pregnancy be supervised by the vet, especially when your Chi is in labour. In addition, it is estimated that only 67% of puppies survive. If you do not intend to breed her then you should consider having her spade which is thought to enable her avoid some cancer problems (possibly).
If you still intend to go ahead, it is important to choose the right size of male Chi (apart from any pedigree considerations). It is recommended that the male should be between 4 and 5 pounds (1.8 - 2.3 Kg) to minimize natural birth risks, otherwise a caesarean section must be anticipated. The majority of birthing mothers do need a caesarean section (your vet will admit there is some risk for a small dog with this procedure though). A full medical examination of the two dogs should be performed before breeding, and it is strongly recommended you avoid in-breeding.
The above sounds like we are trying to discourage you from breeding your Chi but our intention is only to emphasis that more thought and planning is required for Chihuahua breeding than most dog breeding.
Your Chi will be on-heat every 6 months, and this will last approximately 21 days (be aware that she may still be on-heat after 21 days - touch her tail, and if she moves it to one side she is still on-heat).
Natural Birth
If you are inexperienced at Chi breeding it is strongly recommended that your Chihuahua give birth at a vet clinic, and especially do this if she has been pregnant longer than 70 days.
Prior to giving birth your Chi is likely to be in pain but if judged to be in unbearable pain take her to the clinic immediately if you haven't done so. Do this also if it has been longer than 2 hours since delivering her last puppy and you know there are more.
In a natural birth event you can expect the puppies to come out straight after her waters break, and they may emerge one after the other immediately. However, some times there can be delays and the last puppy may only emerge 2 hours after (don't forget, take her to the clinic if longer than 2 hours).
It is natural for the mother to eat the sac and the umbilical cord (do not stop her), and lick her puppies clean. Make sure the mother and puppies are warm comfortable and in a safe out of the way place.
How many pups can you expect? - it varies of course but often about 4 puppies.
See also our Pregnancy Schedule page.
If you would like to see a web site providing some interesting pictures of a caesarean section performed on a Chihuahua (not for the squeamish!) click on following: c-section web site
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Should you get your Chihuahua microchipped?
Microchipping your pet is becoming increasingly popular these days – the reason – it helps to restore your lost pet to you, the rightful owner, of course. For example it is estimated that 86% of microchipped pets are restored to their owners, and in the UK, under the new Pet Passport Travel Scheme, dogs leaving Britain on holiday have to be scanned and identified before they are allowed back into the country. Successful microchip identification, together with documentation of flea & tick treatment and blood-tests for rabies, means that a dog can re-enter Britain without having to undergo 6-month quarantine.
How microchipping helps
Lets understand what this does and what it doesn't do. Microchipping does not mean you can track your lost pet in the way you have seen satellite tracking devices (there are devices that can be used like this but they tend to be relatively large and need to be attached to your dog's collar).
The microchip is meant to be very small (the size of a grain of rice), and when injected under the skin, become invisible to the naked eye. It require no maintenance but will provide a whole range of identity and contact information when scanned by a hand-held scanner.
What are the Pros and Cons?
On the positive side it can be very helpful in identifying your pet very quickly (sometimes dog capture patrols do not have the financial resources to keep a lost pet for very long). Also, as mentioned above, Pet Passports in the UK are using them extensively. To some extent microchipping may deter theft of your Chihuahua as well.
On the negative side it has been reported that occassionally microchips have "migrated" to other parts of the pet's body and become difficult to locate and scan. However, if your Chihuahua is seen by your Vet at least once a year for a health check, it is usual practice to check that the chip is still in place and working. It is also occassionally reported that a chip has gone faulty, but this is becomming a very rare occurence it would seem. Also some scanners occasionally are unable to read certain chips but likewise Universal scanner types seem to have resolved this problem now.
Microchip
Photo Don Farrall Getty Images
Who does it and what does it cost?
The microchip is held inside a tiny glass vial, about the size of a rice grain, which is implanted under the skin on the back of a dog's neck between its shoulder blades. The chip contains a unique code number, the dog's name, age, breed and health as well as the owner's name, address and phone number. This is usually done by your vet as a quick, painless injection. There is little or no bleeding and the dog doesn’t usually show signs of distress, the paperwork is then sent off to a central database and is available to be accessed 24 hours ,7 days a week.
In the UK many dog owners microchip their dogs with the details logged on the national PetLog database. Vets, dog wardens and RSPCA branches offer the service at a cost of £10 to £35.
Summary
It goes without saying that microchipping seems to be a good idea but don’t rely on it completely – make sure your Chi also has Tag ID that not only gives your Chi’s name but your contact details and a mention of the fact that she has a microchip. This information may also deter a would be pet-napper from taking her if they know she has this chip and can easily be identified.